Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a international community of cities urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially defined its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their children do not want to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these narratives and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
